Monday, May 30, 2011

Münzer in Alicante (Oct. 11, 1494)

Münzer:

“We arrived at the noble coastal city called Alicante. While we rode among mountains, we saw many fields of kermes, cumin, esparto, anis and other crops. Alicante is situated on the sea, facing east. Towards the north there is a very high mountain, on whose peak is situated an admirable fortress, and at whose feet is the city with about five hundred houses. It has among others, a beautiful church dedicated to the blessed Virgin Mary, with a painting on the top part of the altar, that was just bought by the new owners of the temple, for fifteen hundred ducats.

[Produce of Alicante]
: On a mountain near the seashore, towards the west, there is a noble mineral salt that is extracted like alum and transported to various ports, like Genoa, and others. They also produce raisins in the coastal valley, where the Saracens live, in such abundance that en every year they gather ten or twelve thousand hundredweight, which are exported all over Europe. …Raisins are also produced in other places between Valencia and AlicanteThe Count of Concentaina is the principal lord over these Moors. There are many towns there
In the maritime regions towards the east, they also make a great quantity of white wine, but even more red wine called "from Alicante," which they send to England, Scotland, Flanders and other places in Europe. … That day, we saw twenty-six boats from Vizcaya, from Flanders, etc., that were loading wine and other things. In this place they produce equally a great quantity of almonds and rice.”



What Münzer Saw in Alicante:

Alicante was an active port but a small town, as can be seen in a 16th century print. The fortress towers over the city, and part of the walls that encircled the small urban area still exist. The church of the Blessed Virgin Mary is still there, though only its nave, with impressive keystones in the vaulting dates from the 15th century. The rest was replaced much later, and its façade also has a later portal. This seems to be true of most churches in the region, (Orihuela is a good example). The rich farmland still exists around the city, and there are still good raisins!



What Münzer never saw (May 28, 2011):

The modern city of Alicante is much bigger than its medieval predecessor, and is the gateway to the beach resorts of the Costa del Sol, as well as having a great city beach. There is still commercial shipping as well, but also a very large number of pleasure yachts. Being that it now a resort in itself, it has a wonderful palm-lined walkway along the water, with a gorgeously Escher-like pavement that dates from the 1950’s. An elevator lets you visit the castle with ease.
It took Münzer’s party three days to reach Alicante from Valencia. With modern highways, it is little more than an hour away.




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