Münzer on the Road to Road to Murcia (Oct. 12-13)

Münzer:

“On October 12th, having left Alicante and traveled over a barren and formerly very dangerous plain because of Saracen assaults, riding two more leagues, we arrived afterwards at another flat and fertile area, watered by rivers, to the town of Elche, which is equivalent in Latin to "mixed" or "hermaphrodite," because it is situated between the frontiers of Granada and Valencia, partly favored by the Christians, partly by the Saracens. Never before today on that road have I seen so many palm trees, whose dates, although they are just ripening now, are not as sweet as African ones, because this region is cooler. Oh, how fertile is this town! Both Christians and many Saracens live here.
The 13th of October, after riding four leagues through a barren plain, and certain Saracen towns, after five leagues we arrived at Orihuela, in a fertile land abundant with water. It is a large city of five thousand houses, situated at the foot of a mountain towards the south. On the highest part of the mountain there is a superb castle. It is a royal city and is eleven short leagues from Cartagena, a maritime city founded in olden times by Hannibal the African, which he named "New Carthage." It is presently in ruins and it has become just a small town, like many others. Orihuela, as I have said, is large and watered by the Segura River, which flows through Murcia into Castile. It is on the limits of the realm of Valencia. Those who leave the city immediately enter the realm of Castile. The region of Orihuela is fruitful and flat, abundant in dates, figs and other noble fruits of that region. Everyone there is Christian.”

What Münzer Saw on the Road to Murcia:

Munzer saw the famous date-palm groves in Elche, which were over two thousand years old when he visited (they were supposedly introduced to this area by the Carthaginians).
Orihuela, which was a large royal city in the 1490’s, has diminished considerably in importance. Remains of its fortress still exist above the town. And the coat of arms of Fernando and Isabel still grace the partly 15th century portal of its church of Santiago.

What Münzer never saw (5/29/2011):

Orihuela, then double the size of Alicante, is now less than half as big (the anti-regime protesters here were just a few). Seaside location has trumped an inland city. Elche is bigger than Orihuela as well, and its famous date palm groves are now landscaped into a park setting, replete with paths, play areas and a large restaurant. It’s now a major shoe manufacturing center. The further south along the Mediterranean coast you go, the more the presence of both old and new Islamic culture can be sensed—both north African and interior African.

Münzer in Alicante (Oct. 11, 1494)

Münzer:

“We arrived at the noble coastal city called Alicante. While we rode among mountains, we saw many fields of kermes, cumin, esparto, anis and other crops. Alicante is situated on the sea, facing east. Towards the north there is a very high mountain, on whose peak is situated an admirable fortress, and at whose feet is the city with about five hundred houses. It has among others, a beautiful church dedicated to the blessed Virgin Mary, with a painting on the top part of the altar, that was just bought by the new owners of the temple, for fifteen hundred ducats.

[Produce of Alicante]: On a mountain near the seashore, towards the west, there is a noble mineral salt that is extracted like alum and transported to various ports, like Genoa, and others. They also produce raisins in the coastal valley, where the Saracens live, in such abundance that en every year they gather ten or twelve thousand hundredweight, which are exported all over Europe. …Raisins are also produced in other places between Valencia and AlicanteThe Count of Concentaina is the principal lord over these Moors. There are many towns there
In the maritime regions towards the east, they also make a great quantity of white wine, but even more red wine called "from Alicante," which they send to England, Scotland, Flanders and other places in Europe. … That day, we saw twenty-six boats from Vizcaya, from Flanders, etc., that were loading wine and other things. In this place they produce equally a great quantity of almonds and rice.”

What Münzer Saw in Alicante:

Alicante was an active port but a small town, as can be seen in a 16th century print. The fortress towers over the city, and part of the walls that encircled the small urban area still exist. The church of the Blessed Virgin Mary is still there, though only its nave, with impressive keystones in the vaulting dates from the 15th century. The rest was replaced much later, and its façade also has a later portal. This seems to be true of most churches in the region, (Orihuela is a good example). The rich farmland still exists around the city, and there are still good raisins!

What Münzer never saw (May 28, 2011):

The modern city of Alicante is much bigger than its medieval predecessor, and is the gateway to the beach resorts of the Costa del Sol, as well as having a great city beach. There is still commercial shipping as well, but also a very large number of pleasure yachts. Being that it now a resort in itself, it has a wonderful palm-lined walkway along the water, with a gorgeously Escher-like pavement that dates from the 1950’s. An elevator lets you visit the castle with ease.
It took Münzer’s party three days to reach Alicante from Valencia. With modern highways, it is little more than an hour away.

What Münzer Saw in Valencia, Part II

Münzer in Valencia – 2:

The Silk Exchange, or Llotja: “ Presently they are building a magnificent building, which they call Llotja, where all the merchants meet to conduct their business. It is a high structure, constructed of cut stone and slender columns. Its width is thirty-two paces, and its length seventy-two. It is completed up to the roof, which will also soon be finished. It has a garden with various fruits and a running fountain. It also has a very high tower, with a chapel, where masses are said daily.”

Pottery Production: “They have a type of mud or potter’s clay that is not found anywhere else, with it they make pots so big that you would think they were wine vats; three or four of the buckets we call "eimers" can fit in them.
They also make plates, jars, pitchers, and many bowls of this type, and they color them so delicately, that you would think them decorated with gold or silver, all of which they sell and ship entire boatloads of them to Venice, Florence, Seville, Portugal, Avignon, Lyons, etc. There are numerous potters.”

The Courtesy of Valencians: “The Valencian population is very affable and courteous. Two Dukes live there, one of which is a son of Pope Alexander VI; many counts, like the Counts of Oliva and Aversa, and various others; more than five hundred knights of the military arm, and many others. There are over two thousand merchants, mechanics and clerics. The men wear long robes, and the ladies dress with more exaggeration than is seemly. In front, their necklines are low cut to their breasts…. All paint their faces, and daub themselves with oils and perfumed waters, with detestable results.
It is also their custom for the inhabitants of the city, both men and women to stroll around from evening until late at night, in such crowds that you would think you were at a fair. However nobody bothers anyone else.”

What Münzer Saw in Valencia:

Münzer gives detailed accounts of events of things long vanished. To paraphrase, he witnessed a sale of “Guanches,” newly-conquered but non-converted Canary Islanders, who were being auctioned off there. He saw “Marranos,” (or “conversos”), awaiting execution for reverting to Judaism, as well as “Sambenitos” (penitential garments) of convicted “conversos” hung in several monasteries. He visited a madhouse. He saw sugar production, furniture manufacture, wine for exportation and a great variety of produce from the surrounding planes, the cultivating mostly being done by Muslims.

Valencian pottery—the gilt-appearing lusterware, was a huge industry of high-end production that was exported all over Europe; many royal families ordered complete sets of dinnerware. Production was generally in the nearby town, Manises, and most of the workmen were resident Muslims, or mudéjares.

The markets, if anything, show even a greater variety of produce, sausages port, beef, veal and poultry than in Münzer’s time, because of modern refrigerated transportation , though even at that earlier date, the amount of import and export was astonishing.

What Münzer never saw:

As at Barcelona, a large modern city has grown up around the small medieval one, with the usual apartment blocks, rail stations, bullrings, etc. Within the old city are also later buildings, a plethora of upscale and humbler restaurants, and plazas where skateboarders practice their skills. You can see this clearly from the top of the Cathedral belltower; not only the great city beyond the medieval inner old town, but the number of newer buildings mixed in with the old monuments in the oldest sections. People are still out late, and stores stay open late. When we were there, there were strong anti-government protests among the local population. In addition, much as in Barcelona, graffiti has become an approved public art form.

Münzer in Valencia - 1 - (Oct 5 - 9, 1494)

Münzer in Valencia- I:
“On the 5th of October, traveling three leagues from Jesús del Valle, we arrived at the very noble city of Valencia, head of the whole realm of Valencia. It is on a very big and very beautiful plain…..on this plain, close to the sea, we find this very populous city, much bigger than Barcelona, very well populated, with many counts, barons, with a duke and more than 500 gilded knights, and nobles without number.”

The Art Historian/Historian Speaks (5/26/2011):
What goes around comes around. Münzer’s journey was a snapshot in time. In 1494, Barcelona was very much in decline, and Valencia was a boom town—in Crown of Aragon lands, it was the most prosperous and important city at this time, beginning with the favor of Alfonso V “el Magnánimo” and continuing with the kickbacks from the Borja/Borgia family (now riding high with the papacy of Alexander VI). By the early 16th century, it would be eclipsed by Seville, as New World trade developed. In 2011, Barcelona now has a population of over 1,500,000 within its city limits, while Valencia is at 850,000.
Valencia would have a second boom in the 18th century, so few of the 15th century monuments remain intact, the general rule of thumb being that boom times bring extensive renovations. In recent years, there has been restoration of 15th century monuments, so now they are very clean and intelligent—but seen through the filter of art historians, archaeologists and urban restoration: what goes around comes around.

What Münzer saw in Valencia: Prominent Buildings and Convents:
The Cathedral: The Cathedral is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. It has an archbishop, twenty-four canons, vicars, cantors and sacristans. There are thus two hundred priests for that Church. They lead a very canonical and religious life. The building is exquisitely constructed, the choir stalls excellently carved, with a hundred and forty four seats. The tower is quite high. We ascended it by two hundred and six high vaulted stairs. At the top, the contemplation of the situation of the region and the city was a marvelous sight for us. The tower is octagonal and high. Its width on top was twenty paces. The construction of the church, as I said, is magnificently executed. Its length measures a hundred and fifty six paces, its width, fifty-three. It is in the form of a cross. It has more than twenty chapels separated by columns. The sum of its altars is fifty-six. It is quite tall and very well vaulted. One could write many things about it.
Convents: “There are also many and illustrious monasteries of both sexes. In that of Saint Augustine there is a chapel of the Virgin Mary that is famous for its great miracles. There we counted more than a hundred and twenty silver lamps, but not all of them were lit. It is the custom among the Spaniards to fulfill their vows to God generally [by] making silver lamps, each according to his wealth. Never have we seen another city where the churches were so exquisitely adorned with altar ornaments and with gilded retablos as here….
There is a convent of nuns of the Order of Preachers of the Observance [Dominicans], called Saint Catherine of Siena. There are seventy nuns. I say that it was built two years ago. It is magnificent and surrounded by very ample walls…. Not far from this chapel is the monastery of nuns of the order of Preachers. It is very ample and all its walls, from the ground to the roof, are covered with the garments of the marranos who did penance, and of those who died at the stake, whose numbers are very great. On each sanbenito is written the name of the marrano.
Not far from this chapel is the monastery of nuns of the order of Preachers [Dominicans]. It is a very grandiose building with great cloisters and gardens. Outside of it is a magnificent chapel the Queen Isabel, now regent, had constructed with all splendor.
Outside of walls and near the Alcázar [fortress] of the king is the very noble and new monastery called the Santísima Trinidad. It is of the Friars Minor order. They are rich and live rigidly within their observance.”
You can find about ten stone-throws away from the gate of the wall the monastery of Santa María Jesús. They are Minor Brothers of the Observance. It is a recent foundation. Within its cloister, there is a pretty garden with lemon and citron trees and various myrtle topiary hedges; there are none better…. “

What Münzer Saw:
The nave of the Cathedral and two ambulatory chapels have been restored to their original architecture, though none of the altarpieces are in their original places. The choir is gone, but parts of its architecture have been moved and reconstructed in the adjacent Cathedral museum; there are also fragments of altarpieces in the same location. The silver altarpiece is long gone, though there are prints that show its original configuration. For a good historical study of the Cathedral, we refer you to
The bell tower (“el Miquelet”) is high, but it has only 188 steps to the top.

Of the convents, the church of San Augustín, (minus the Virgin’s chapel, and silver lamps), the chapel of Queen Isabel in the modernized convent of Santo Domingo, and the closed order of the Santísimo Trinidad are all that remain. The convent of Santa Catalina de Siena is now occupied by a Corte Inglés department store (only a street sign gives a clue to its location), and the site of Santa María de Jesús is now a pink commercial building at C/Jesús, 9.

What Münzer Could Have Seen:

Münzer does not mention the city walls, which no longer exist. Only two of the gates, Torre de los Serranos and the Torre del Quart, still mark where they were. What remains certainly speaks to the strong fortifications. Beyond them was the Turia River, drained after bad flooding in the 1950’s; the riverbed is now a green belt with parks and sports fields.
Valencia Cathedral preserves what is called the relic of the Holy Chalice. It’s strange that this isn’t mentioned. It’s now within the reconstructed choir wall in the museum.
Although he talks about all the glittering altarpieces, Münzer mentions none except the silver altarpiece of the Cathedral—probably because Germen craftsmen intervened. The altarpiece now has a blank center, with wings added in the 16th century by Fernando Yañez de la Almedina and Fernando de los Llanos. It seems strange to modern art historians that he does not discuss the frescoes recently done in the vaults of the capilla mayor by Italian painters Francesco Pagano, Pablo de San Leocadio and Master Riquart, brought by then-Cardinal Rodrigo de Borja (later Pope Alexander VI) in 1486, But again, this is modern art historical prejudice.

The Road to Valencia Oct. 1-5, 1494

Münzer talking about the road to Valencia:
“We finally traveled eleven very long leagues on a very rough road called "Malarrocha," that is, "bad rock." And there the name is truly appropriate.
The 1st day of October, traveling on a difficult path, after two leagues we arrived at the castle of Ginestar, near the banks of the Ebro river. The river Ebro, which runs from the mountains towards Zaragoza, navigable like the Danube near Ratisbon, dividing the realm of Valencia from Catalonia. On its two banks are many hamlets of Saracens of the religion of Mohammed, whom the princes tolerate because they are diligent and work hard in agriculture and don't drink wine. They exact a large tribute from them. There are on both banks a very fertile place with olives and tamarinds, which produce a sweet fruit, which is fed to mules and to horses, that we call "Saint John's bread." On this same day we arrived at the pleasant town called Cherta, riding four long leagues until the dinner hour.”


What Münzer Saw:

The road continues narrow and winding, as Münzer says. The castle he saw was not in Ginestar, but across the Ebro River, and it was a Templar castle. Four-square and heavily fortified, it sits above the town on a steep hill. If at this point he crossed the Ebro, he probably did it on the sort of ferry we used to cross the river (with horses instead of a car, of course). It works entirely by use of the natural river currents.
Olive, tamarind and other fruit trees still grow in the area, and there are many towns along the river, including Cherta (now spelled Xerta), but the “Saracens” (now North African immigrants, no longer inhabit these towns, rather they are in their own neighborhoods in the larger towns, like Tortosa, where Münzer didn’t go, because of a plague epidemic. (But we did, ironically staying in the Parador there, which is in a restored Moorish castle.(5/22/2011)

Munzer Talking About the Road to Valencia, ctd.

“On the 2nd of October, descending two leagues by the coast, we arrived in the morning at the ancient city of Tortosa, but not having entered it because of the plague, traveling through very extensive and deserted plains, riding with great determination, we arrived after six miles at the castle of Alcanar. The 3rd of October, crossing through the pretty settlement of San Mateo and through seven miles of some cropland, we arrived finally at Kureal. On the 4th, passing some desert, by Villarreal, and traveling some 7 miles, we arrived at the town of Fredes, in a very beautiful and fruitful plain that receives water from all around. It is a very beautiful place, situated on the coast, with a very large and arrogant fortress situated on a high mountain.
[Monastery of Jesús del Valle]: The 5th of October, leaving in the morning, traveling one league towards the west, we arrived at the monastery of Jesús del Valle. This monastery is located in the western foothills of a fairly high mountain. Everywhere around it is sterile land. The brothers here are of the Observant Order of Franciscans. They maintain a pretty garden, which they irrigate with water taken from a well by means of a mule. The cloister is small, but everything is lovely and excellently placed. When we were there, there were only ten or twelve people. There were four priests, two deacons, two sub-deacons and two lay brothers.”

What Münzer Saw:

We are confused here. The itinerary that Münzer cites makes little sense. Alcanor is there, but with later fortifications. Perhaps Münzer was referring to the extent castle in nearby Ulldecona—or perhaps the Alcanor castle has vanished. San Mateo still exists, but no one has ever heard of Kureal; perhaps it’s the town of Borriol, and transcribers misread Münzer’s handwriting.

What Münzer could have seen:

The entire coast, from Tarragona to Valencia, is quite flat, and certainly has an abundance of cropland. We did go to Fredes, but it’s nowhere near the coast—it took a rather harrowing drive into the mountains to the west, and Fredes was tiny—with no evidence that it ever had been bigger. Maybe he meant Sagunto, originally a Roman city, which has an imposing fortress (no pictures—sorry).
The Monastery of Jesús del Valle, apparently very small, has completely vanished. But if Münzer really made it to Fredes, he might have seen the Convent of Santa María Benifessà, established in the 13th century—though our view suggests much more modern structures, we couldn’t enter, as it was only open on Thursdays from 1 to 3 p.m., and we came on a Tuesday.

What Münzer Never Would Have seen:

The cropland is near the coast, but on the immediate coast are an almost unbroken line of tourist hotels—the whole concept of European travelers going to the beach just for amusement sake would have been completely incomprehensible to him.
(5/23/2011).

Münzer on the Road at Monasteries: Sept. 29-30, 1494

Münzer at Poblet:

“The 29th of September, that was the feast of Saint Michael, having traveled three long leagues, we arrived at midday at the very noble monastery of Poblet. It is on a beautiful plain, in the foothills of some very high mountains. The monastery of Poblet is so magnificently built with so many and such grand palaces, patios, storerooms, cloisters, and with the wide wall that surrounds it, that you would believe it to be a castle. All the buildings are covered with cut squared stone, so strong that you would think that they were built against the passage of time. All is disposed for comfort and amenity.
I have never seen such a stronger or more beautiful monastery of that order. They are Cistercians of the order of Saint Bernard. There were then eighty monastic priests and forty converse or lay brothers. They keep a rigid observance. It was founded by the kings of Aragon, who have magnificent tombs there. There repose seven kings and their wives. The first of these was King Jaume, who obtained the royal scepter in the year of the Lord 1223, and maintained it during fifty-three years. He was a zealous persecutor of the Saracens in all of Spain. He defeated them on the island of Mallorca, in the realm of Valencia, the province of Murcia and many more. Finally, he adopted monastic habit, and making a celibate life, died with the Lord. He is buried there, in a splendid tomb of whitest marble. There also rests King Martin and the grandfather and the father of King Fernando, the actual monarch. I have never seen so many or such big casks as those of its storeroom. I counted sixteen of them. I think that thirty cartloads fit into each of them.
They have a very notable pharmacy, well provided with all kinds of medicines, a very hardworking doctor, with whom I spoke, finding him very knowledgeable. All the crafts and professions also have their rooms and offices dedicated to their work. Oh, how majestic is their church, constructed in the old style [Cistercian Romanesque]. As well as the chapels and the choir stalls, and their very beautiful organ, admirably decorated with gold and silver.
They treated us with great honor and courteously showed us each one of their precious objects."

What Münzer Saw:

Monasteries were heavily visited on Münzer’s journey because they had guest houses, and in places where any sort of stopping place was few and far between, they were trustworthy lodging places.
The paradox of Poblet is that it has virtually come around to what Münzer saw: Trashed in 1835, the place was left abandoned for a century. Perhaps because it was such a power symbol, Francisco Franco had it restored beginning in 1940, and since the basic structure of the church survived, it has mostly come down to us intact. Cistercian monks were established here once again, though now there are only 32 monks. And the resident lay community of artisans has vanished, but the way of life is virtually intact.
All the royal tombs that Münzer cites have been reestablished, though the images are recent and the ossuaries have mixed royal bones in them. We show some samples, with King Martin, the last king of the original Aragonese line, in the single tomb.

What Münzer Couldn’t Have Seen:

Aside from the souvenir shop, the monastery is making wine again, but now the concession is farmed out to the giant Codorniu firm. The monks now have their own comfortable cells with central heating and private bathrooms. (May 22, 2011)

Münzer on the Road to Valencia: I

“ September 30th, crossing very high mountains with valleys and gorges, traveling an entire day, we arrived finally at a Carthusian monastery, on a flat spot surrounded by mountains, that has the name of Scala Dei. It is a very venerable place and has religious monks. There were twenty-eight of them and three lay brothers. They received us affably, sharing with us what they had. There was a certain very learned young priest there, who was the son of a wise physician of Barcelona. He was sick with malarial fevers. With admirable gratitude he listened to my advice. May God grant him health! This monastery is very noble and beautiful.”

What Münzer saw:

Scala Dei or Escala Dei monastery is in a valley surrounded by high and impressive hills. The road there really was long and difficult. The monastery itself was at its first apex when Münzer was there, quite a bit smaller than Poblet. Since the 15th century, the monastery was expanded and redesigned in the 18th century, and then, like Poblet, destroyed in 1835. Unlike Poblet, the monks never came back, and over the next century and a half, many of its building materials were recycled by local farmers into their own structures. Most of the extant ruins date from the 18th century.

What Münzer Couldn’t Have Seen:

At present, the Catalan government is in the process of stabilizing the remaining ruins, and doing some intelligent reconstruction (a model of an 18th century cell and attached structures has been reconstructed), however the basic plan is to stabilize what remains. There’s a visitor’s center with an informative video.
The whole region, called the Priorat, has now become internationally famous for its wines, and so there are numerous tasting rooms. Münzer and his companions certainly drank the local wine, but what’s produced now is far more sophisticated!
Roads in the area are still extremely curvy, but still better than when 15th-century travelers journeyed here, and they needed an entire day to journey from Poblet to Scala Dei. In our car, it took about an hour. (May 22, 2011)

Münzer on the Road-Sept. 28, 1494

Münzer:

“The following Sunday, the 28th of September, taking another path towards the north, with a lot of struggle, we descended for three leagues to the castle of Igualada. After two more leagues we came to the fortress of Santa Coloma, where we were shown her head. Catalan leagues are excessively long, and the route very rugged. On horseback, we could scarcely travel more than four or five a day. Two leagues from Santa Coloma, towards the north, in the direction of Zaragoza, is found the castle of Cervera of admirable fame.”

What Münzer saw:

Münzer is only actually discussing two sites here. One that he calls “Cervera Castle,” is actually known today as the “Castle of Claramunt,” as it sits just above the town of Pobla de Claramunt, just south of Igualada. The reason for the confusion in names is that the castle, at the time of Münzer’s visit, was the domain of the Cervera family. It exists, though it was badly damaged twice, once during the Catalan civil war of 1471-72, and again in the war against the French. It was also rebuilt twice, once at the end of the 15th century (the incarnation seen by Münzer), and again in the late 19th century (which is what’s in the photo.
The fortress at Santa Coloma de Queralt later became just a private residence, and has been restored. Its tower is still under restoration. Santa Coloma’s head may be there, or in the church dedicated to her in the same town, but both were closed at the time of our visit.

What Münzer could have seen:

Münzer and his companions probably passed through many small towns, such as Aguiló, with stone buildings, tiled roofs, and streets so narrow that they were stepped. Since, as we’ve remarked, most sizable towns were walled; he doesn’t even bother to describe Santa Coloma’s, much of which still exist. It was a small city even then, its church wall making up part of the fortifications.

What Münzer would never have seen:

The roads are paved, of course, and well-graded, with tunnels where needed, so the present-day route is hilly and the roads wind, but the drive is comfortable. Old, picturesque windmills that existed à la Quijote further west in La Mancha are long gone, but modern wind turbines, power lines, and cell-phone towers are everywhere.